Installation Instructions

PILE DRIVING – CONCRETE SUPPORT

1. Nail the stake and make sure that the bottom hole of the stake where the guide wire will pass through is 5 cm above the ground surface.
2. Then, using a hoe, remove the soil around the perimeter of the stake with a 25 cm radius and a depth of at least 20 cm.
3. Finally we fill the pit with concrete.
4. In order to continue the fencing work, the pile must remain untouched after the concrete has been poured for at least 24 hours in the summer months and for at least 48-72 hours in the winter months.

OPENING A HOLE – NAILING A PILE – CONCRETE SUPPORT

1. Drill a 20 cm diameter hole with a manual or petrol-driven drill (sander).
2. The hole should be 40 cm deep from the ground surface if the intended section of the pile to be driven is 50 cm.
3. Nail the stake by 5 to 10 cm. This helps us to get the pile in an upright position until the concrete is poured.
4. Finally we fill the pit with concrete.
5. In order to continue the fencing work, the pile must remain untouched after the concrete has been poured for at least 24 hours in the summer months and for at least 48-72 hours in the winter months.

NAILED IT.

1. Nail the strut at an angle in the direction in which the guide wire will be stretched (ouija board) and calculate the top part of the strut, when nailed, to be at most 30 cm from the top of the pile.

2. Pass the resonator ring to the stake and screw the screw tightly through the corresponding hole in the strut. For a better fit, the strut should be compressed at the top by at least 6 cm.

3. In case we have not provided for the strut to be compressed, a suitable adjustable strut connector is available

for its adjustment to the ring.

BRACKET WITH ANCHOR

1. Nail the anchor about 50 cm long at a distance of 50 – 60 cm from the base of the pile. The anchor may be made of a tube or angle as long as a hole is provided. In the case of pipe should be compressed at the top of at least 6 cm.

2. Screw the strut with the anchor. The strut should be compressed at the top and bottom by at least 6 cm.

3. Thread the resonator ring through the hole in the bushing.

to the stake and screw the screw tightly through the corresponding hole in the strut.

1. We lay the door down in the position it will be in when it is closed.
2. Place spacers of about 2 cm between the frames in the middle of the door to create the necessary gap between the two panels and tie with wire.
3. We place 2 isosceles corners about 2 meters long, one parallel to the top of the frame and one parallel to the bottom of the frame in order to temporarily integrate the two door panels.
4. Dig the ground by creating a pit about 30-40 cm in diameter and at least 1/3 of the height of the column that is outside the ground. ( e.g. if the door is 1.50 m high, then the pit and the part of the column to be supported should be at least 50 cm ).
5. Lift the door and place the pillars into the pits and align it on all sides. (we recommend a spirit level for the vertical alignment of the columns and an alpha rubber for the horizontal alignment from column to column).
6. Place 2 temporary braces perpendicular to the door and tie them tightly to maintain the alignments we made earlier.
7. 
   Place 2 struts on each door post, one in the direction where the fencing will continue and the other as perpendicular to the door as possible and at the same time create an imaginary angle of at least 90° with the first one.
   
   the first corner post
   
   . The
   
   
   
   struts
   
   
   
   
   
   are attached to the door pillar with the appropriate connection rings.
8. After we have performed the final alignment check, we are ready to grout the door pillars and struts with concrete.
9. After 48 hours we can remove the spacers, corners and temporary braces and our door is ready to use.

1. 
   Place the stakes in the corners and the
   
   
   
   door
   
   
   
   .
   
   
2. 
   We place the
   
   
   
   the struts
   
   
   
   
   
   
   to the corner posts and the door with the appropriate support rings.
   
3. We make a guide (suture) from corner to corner stake.
4. Place the stakes at a distance of 2.50 metres from each other.
5. Pass the first cross wire starting from the bottom hole of the first stake, then the top hole of the next stake and alternating until the end. Then pass the second one opposite to each peg and twist the cross wires with an iron or pliers until they are taut.
6. Pass the wire in 3 horizontal rows (bottom-middle-up) through the corresponding holes of the stake and stretch it either with pliers or using the appropriate tensioners.Unwind the mesh down parallel to the fence and stretch it. We then tie it to the corner stake and begin to lift it up and tie it to each stake in at least three places.
7. When we place all the mesh rolls on the fencing, we tie them with fine wire to the stakes two or three more times and to all the wires horizontally or crosswise every 30 cm with the same fine wire or with tying hooks.Finally, we place the plugs on the pipes.
   
   SAMPLE MATERIAL PROPORTION FOR 100m Perimeter

   40	Fencing posts every 2.50m
   8	Struts for the 4 corners
   8	Rings for the struts of the piles
   1	Door (at the same height of the grid)
   4	Struts for the door
   4	Rings for the door struts
   5	Rolls 20m mesh or 4 rolls of 25m.
   300	Meters of wire for 3 horizontal rows
   300	Meters of wire for 2 crossover rows. (the wire must be at least one size larger than the mesh)
   4	Kilograms of No 10 wire for tying or 2 kg of wire for tying and 2000 tying hooks.
   40	Cups for the pipes

   
   EXAMPLE

   40	Galvanized pipes 1¼ x 2,00
   8	Galvanized pipes 1 x 2,00
   8	1¼ rings for the stake struts
   1	Door 1,50 x 3,00
   4	Galvanized pipes 1 x 2,00
   4	1 ½ rings for the door struts
   5	Net rolls. No 14 50 x 50 x 1,50
   25	Kilograms of galvanized wire No 15
   2	Kilograms of galvanized wire No 10
   1	Box of 1000 hooks
   40	Tappas 1¼

Decorate your spaces with modern pots made of mesh and stone or pebbles.

In many designs and dimensions, with the possibility of filling a wide variety of pebbles so that each one is unique and fully harmonized with your taste or the environment.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING A SINGLE BRAID POT

Planting this type of pot is easy.

– Fill the construction with pebbles up to about halfway.

– We place the pot, which can be of any shape, even a nursery pot.
– The upper height of the plastic pot should be 3-5 cm lower than the upper height of the wire structure.
– Then fill the rest of the space with pebbles up to the top, covering the area with soil.

Single-walled pots with a single grid wall require a relatively larger amount of stone or pebbles,

to fill, the cost of which is offset by the cost of supplying the single construction

which is significantly less than that of the double

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING A DOUBLE BRAID POT

The double-walled pots are lined on the inside with ground cover fabric.
The fabric does not allow muddy water to penetrate the wall containing the pebble.
The planting of this type of pot is easy thanks to the integrated construction.

– Fill the gap between the inner and outer mesh with pebbles.

– Plant the plant or sapling as you would any other pot or bed.

In these pots, the bottom is perforated and the plant can also take root in the natural soil,
if placed on a soil surface.

Double-walled grid pots require a smaller amount of stone or pebbles.

BENCHES – GARDEN TABLE

Give a new dimension to your home or business garden with our mesh and stone benches.

Combine the seats with a table and create your own outdoor living room.
Contemporary structures of original design that subvert the classical outdoor architecture. The structures can be combined with a wooden or marble surface on the top.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE INSTALLATION OF BENCH AND TABLE BASES

Filling these wire boxes is very easy.

The only thing we have to make sure is that the lid closes unobstructed after filling.

As covers for the benches and the table you can use wooden ones that we recommend,
or marble depending on the surrounding area.

MASONRY WITH MESH & PETRA

Create innovative partitions using the method of wire walls with stones.

Give a unique, ecological and stylish touch to your space.

With the help of climbing plants, it will quickly become an element perfectly in harmony with the environment.

Adopt one of our suggestions or create your own by choosing from a range of different stone colours.

Instructions for the installation of the Masonry Case

1. They are placed on level and solid ground,
2. The mesh enclosure requires in-ground support with concrete footings.
3. In order to have a net wall height of more than 1.60 m, the adaptation of special pieces (piles) is required.
4. The special pieces, consisting of 2 mm thick galvanized sheet metal, are punched in a “P” shape and fitted to the narrow sides of the structure.
5. The dimensions of the special piece are 2,5*20*2,5 cm, and it has holes every 40 cm, so that it can be integrated (screwed) with the corresponding one of the next case.
6. Its height is 2,25 m for 1,80 m high cases and 2,50 m for 2,00 m high cases.

Installation instructions for Masonry Column

1. They are placed on level and solid ground,
2. The lattice column requires in-ground support with concrete footing.
3. In order to have a net column height of more than 1.60 m, the adaptation of special pieces (piles) is required.
4. The special pieces, consisting of galvanized angle 50 x 50 x 5 mm, are welded to the corners of the column with a corresponding extension for the support.

SYNTHETIC TURF

– No need for a clipper.
– We do not spray with herbicides.
– We do not consume water.
– Green all year round.

Mounting instructions

* Grass grubbing
* Spraying of grasses for their total drying
* Alignment of the ground and pressing with a roller
* Laying the ground cover fabric and supporting it with nails around the perimeter and polyurethane (PU) glue at the joints.
* Sand layer minimum 3 cm
* Sand dripping and stepping with a roller
* Placement of synthetic turf
* If you lay the turf in more than one strip, always make sure to unroll the roll in the same direction.
* At the joints, we use the 10 cm auxiliary margin on the edge of the turf or we use strips of ground cover fabric and with the use of polyurethane (PU) glue we integrate the two strips.